Window fixed and finally north west coast we head.
2017 THE PINNACLES & SANDY CAPE
Window fixed and finally north west coast we head.
Window fixed and finally north west coast we head.
Unbelievable! Yesterday a window blow out, today broken tow hitch - down hill!
Our west coast mission seems to be constantly interrupted. Driving along the highway out of Bunbury and the window on the bus door had a blow out. It just exploded!
So we planned a stop over in Mandurah to have a new piece of glass manufactured when just short of our destination the tow hitch broke - on a down hill slide.
When the ball hitch broke we where going down a very steep hill 1st gear and on and off the brakes. It was under a lot of stress, you can't see how steep it was in the pic's.
So car off, dragged it around the corner then a great guy on a motorbike offered to go home and get us a towball tongue to borrow then another bloke stopped in his Rodeo ute and towed it 700m to the boat ramp for us (absolutely nowhere else to park off the road). Fortunately the local auto shop also open Sunday so Brad off to buy a new hitch! Meanwhile I get some grumpy old bastard complaining that he couldn't reverse in to his "preferred" boat trailer park (bus parked in it) - well buddy choose one of the 15 others available. I (Julie) took great pains to specifically park the bus in the tightest corner furthest from the ramp keeping within 1 park space so as not to intrude.....some people!
Under the Sea at Busselton Jetty. The world on timber piles below the water line quite amazing.
So excited to venture into the unknown of the West. As we'd already explored a lot of Albany-Denmark when visiting my sister who lived there for a while, we just did some passing stops with a mission up the West Coast.
Slippery snakes, cheeky birds and chilled out roos at Dinasour World. Just passing by and thought we'd drop in, couldn't get Lola away from the snake - Olive Python.
A tour of the awesome Mammoth Cave in Augusta. We so would have loved to do them all but my ongoing Ross River Virus ailments have severely hindered my ability to walk so this seemed the easiest.
What a great day in WA! Hand feeding stingrays and a tour of the awesome Mammoth Cave. Special thanks to the fisherman who gave Lola some fish scraps to feed with
All Ages Playground (Katanning) and other roadside stuff
We had always planned to detour to Wave Rock via Ravensthorpe however due to rain and floods, the actual road bridge was literally washed away. It will be quite some time before a rig like ours will make through that way. So back to Norseman then the dirt track option to Hyden.
Careful what you wish for.....just a little too arid for us in the Goldfields, couldn't wait to get to Esperance - beautiful beaches and refresh with a subtle sea breeze.
Well it's fresher for sure, but temperatures as low as 14 (mid summer), blustering cold winds and endless rain is what we've found here. Waiting patiently for mail to be delivered (some of Lola's school books), we have extended our stay daily, up to a full week. Even if the mail arrives on Monday, we still can't leave Esperance toward the west as nothing is coming in or out there due to flood waters, Norseman bound is the only exit.
A lovely little park, with nice shady trees and privacy and we are cabin bound - the patter of rain idyllic for a day or two, but several days on not fun when living in a bus.
Esperance boasts beautiful beaches, where we had one great day 4wd'ing in the sand dunes, along the white sands admiring turquoise waters. We beach drove from Esperance end through to Cape Le Grand. There was a few treachourous patches where smarter folk as unprepared as us would have turned back, but with Brad's impressive skill at the wheel while holding on to his breath we made it through unscathed and without the Suzuki being washed away in the rising tide. Great fun.
There is not much to do in Esperance on multiple rainy days.
The road is open. The sun is hot and high and the atmosphere rather steamy as we finally approach Lake Ballard.
Despite the melting heat and the most ferocious of flies, a beautifully peaceful bushcamp invites us with striking view of the lake. Following the days of downpour, today it truly is a lake as opposed to the usual dryness of a salt pan.
This was beautiful to see but perilous to explore - beneath the shimmering silver surface is a slippery, slimy mud slush. The conditions limiting our direct exposure to only 3 of 51 of life size statues that is "Inside Australia". Spanning approximately 7 square kilometres, the statues created by artist Antony Gromley are made of metal modelled on 3D scans of the local Menzies residents.
GWALIA GHOST TOWN, LEONORA WA
The rain has dried up and things are heating up. The little town of Leonora offers all the basic essentials, without the benefit of a great personality we so love in a outback town.
Up the road to Gwalia, we met two fabulous personalities in Freddy and Lorrie who manage the Gwalia Museum and free camp ground. Parked up on the hill in what is essentially the Museum carpark, to the left the unique opportunity of campside to a 290m deep open cut gold mine, some 900m wide. To the right, a ghost town experience with a birdseye view.
THE GWALIA MUSEUM
It's not all travels and tourist trails. It's back to school for Lola this week. The bus is heating up with hot heads and hot weather and the motivation to get stuck into school work is lacking on all fronts.
Off to a slow start, school get's underway and then one day too many with our clothes sticking to our sweaty bodies with no shelter or shade to hide behind, we also got underway. Finally, (road permitting) we are off to Lake Ballard.
GHOST TOWN & PIT
MENZIES TO KOOKYNIE, WA
Google doesn’t always know best! Jobs all done in Kalgoorlie, I had gradually worn Brad down to continue north before south west to Esperance as I just must see the statues at Lake Ballard salt lake. Not having passed a petrol station on our way out that was easily accessible, it was no bother as google maps told us there were two stations in the next town of Menzies, just over 100kms away. We could fill up and head off to lake.
The road to Lake Ballard is closed due to flooding and unfortunately google was only half right. There is one fuel station in Menzies which is the new unmanned variety of “use your card pre pay” Eagle fuels. Only the card station was out of order. Now the fuel gauge on the old bus has a unique operating system which cannot be entirely relied upon. So just how much fuel did we have? Google and the locals confidently assuring us there was no more fuel until Leonora, a further 100+kms away.
We contacted Eagle who promptly sent a young fella out to try and reset the machine but to no avail – lightning strike apparently.
With camping at Lake Ballard plans squashed, the uncertainty of making it Leonora over our heads, the lateness of the day, we decided to go on to Niagara Dam campsite and worry about it in the morning.
A lovely peaceful night at Niagara (with exception of 2 million flies), we took our chances (no other option really) of continuing on to Leonora– and guess what, we found fuel just 13km’s up the road at the kooky little town of Kookynie. Google didn’t know about this one.
After eventually having access granted from the resident bodyguard horse and an interesting chat with the landlady, we were much relieved to be fuelled up and off to explore Leonora / Gwalia while waiting for the road to open to Lake Ballard.
Well the bright side of a broken axel and illness is a detour to Kalgoorlie. Not that I particularly loved Kalgoorlie, but I loved making the detour to this rather famous gold town and the further detours beyond.
We did the tourist thing, Super Pit mine, museum etc, braved some boiling hot weather then the pursuing rain. Confirmed my diagnosis of Ross River Virus and picked up the axel which Brad fitted to the trailer.
Been here, done that, now heading north as I insist on seeing the statue art at Lake Ballard.
The Nullarboor crossing didn't go exactly as planned.
Plan: Take it slow, stop and smell all the hidden roses (so to speak) and stop before the border and cook up the piles of fresh fruit and veg we have on board.
Reality: I was very unwell, sleeping all the time and having a lot of trouble walking. We stopped overnight at the Great Australian Bight and the next morning I woke covered in a rash from head to toe and could not get out of bed.
So straight off to Eucla in attempt to seek medical assitance, through the fruit and veg inspection point much quicker than planned disposing of piles of good food, get to Eucla and get the local nurse out of bed. After discussion with the flying doctor, Ross River Virus is suspected, so straight off to Kalgoorlie Hospital is the recommendation. Fine, except just before hitting the border we lost a wheel on the trailer as a result of a broken axel. So we limped the bus/trailer into Eucla and parked up there trying to organise a new trailer axel.
Of all places to break down. So as it was near impossible to get an axel to Eucla, we had to stay in Eucla until I was well enough to drive the car behind bus as there was no way we could tow the car on the broken trailer. So about a week later, I then drove the car the rest of the Nullarboor behind the bus over several days (gradually increasing the number of hours I could drive for) and off to Kalgoorlie where we are having a new axel shipped to.
Fun and games, life's on the bus is not always a box of chocolates.
PENONG, CACTUS BEACH & PT SINCLAIR Sad to say goodbye to our loved ones, but they promise to come and see us in WA. Excited to finally be heading west.
A detour via Saddleworth and Peterborough (my mission to always take a different road), then back ontothe Eyre Peninsula, stop over at Streaky Bay and one of our favourite camp sites so far, Perlubie Beach. Further westbound, we stopped in Penong for a few days as it was very hot and I was starting to feel rather unwell - excessivley tired and sore joints, particularly in my ankles.
We had great fun exploring Cactus Beach and Pt Sinclair, driving along the beaches, through the sandunes and enjoying the sea air.
So the party animal half of the family went home, so next stage with Kerryn & Stephen we headed up to the Murray back to Mannum for a few days of R&R. It was unbelievably great to see Steve doing pretty well, better than we've seen him since his long wait on the heart transplant list, an interim mechanical heart and finally a donor heart delivered. He's had a lot of major struggles along the way, but finally starting to be able to be out and about and getting stronger.
So excited, the family have come to stay. A 9 hour drive and arrived in Beachport. A few minor hiccups, their cabins were booked without concern for a campsite for the bus, expecting there would be plenty, but not the case. So without any other option, we were forced to illegitimately camp out in the town during their stay.
Our cousins have always been a huge part of our life back home, and though we've been back to visit them a few times in Vic, this is their first venture out to see us. We had a great time with them as always, doing what we do - drinking, laughing, teasing, laughing.
We spent a lovely week or so at the free camp ($10/night) on the Murray River at Haythorpe Reserve, just a short ferry across the river into Mannum township. Hired a dinghy and up the river to Young Husband and basically just chilling out by the water. New Years Eve saw an influx of campers for a couple of days, but otherwise peaceful and pleasurable. Although dying to head west, we are waiting here because our cousins from Victoria have decided to take a holiday road trip and come and meet us in Adelaide (or thereabouts). Can't wait to see them all.
Leaving Mannum, I insisted upon the long way around through the back roads as I always avoid taking the same road twice. First stop Swan Reach where we caught up with some other bus builders Bruce and Angel, a nice dinner at the pub overlooking the water, a drive through Waikeri, Berri and stop over in the tiny town of Karoonda at a council provided camp site. A couple of stifling hot days at Naracoorte then on to Beachport for the long awaited catch up with our family.
Belair and Happy Valley, sounds relaxing right. Well it was in the end but not without a fair bit of anxiety.
The Adelaide Hills quite lovely, picturesque trees, winding little roads, quaint strip shots spattered throughout. However, arriving at Belair National Park Caravan Park (again the only place we could stay at this time of year, with a big rig and a dog), the entrance to our camp site rather ominous. Fortunately, Brad is a great driver and we nestled into a lovely little bush camp to relax after the drive in.
The next day, we were off to Happy Valley to have the fabulous Bill build us a new radiator. "No worries" he said about getting the bus into his home workshop on the hill. "We have another bus camping here on our 10 acres". "Just call me when you get to the bottom of the driveway and I'll guide you up". My response...."sounds a little ominous Bill, how steep's the driveway?" No problem he says, you'll be right.
Well with a knowing run up we made it up the short steep incline "no worries". The problem was, once up the top, there was nowhere to go, nowhere to turn a 17 metre bus and trailer. Quite a saga of a day it was figuring how to get the bus in the workshop, and how to get out of here once finished without attempting a treacherous reverse down the driveway with the car/trailer on board. So with sheer determination, we unloaded the car and the trailer, managed to turn the bus, and Bill precariously drove our car trailer down the hill on his Ford sedan, only then realising the weight of the trailer and hence our concerns. No matter, we made it out safely in the end and were so very thankful to Bill for doing this job over Christmas and so obligingly.
With a lovely cool temperature gauge, off we head to Mannum SA by the Murray. It took a lot longer than planned to get out of the hills, forced to ignore the navigator every time we a strett witha tonne limit. At once stage we had been driving for about 40 minutes and only made it about 8kms closer to our destination.
Ahh the fun of living on a bus.
Green, green grass, white sands and crystal waters. The contrast is stunning, so so green here.
Lush, vibrant grass, tall trees offering colour and shade, white sands you can drive on and crystal clear waters to immerse in. After 9 months in the desert it is such a treat.
So we've found ourselves in the beautiful McLaren Vale region. Usually ot a fan of these types of caravan parks, other vans so close you can hear your neighbours fart. Well it is the peak season of Christmas and this was the only one we could get into, turns out it was just what we needed.
I'm not sure if it was just the stunning green all around us, or the different people, mostly Adelaide holidayers. We thoroughly enjoyed our Christmas treats of Paxton Winery (with lots of beautiful organic wines to take home), fabulous dining at Vasarelli's, finally getting to a shop to get Lola the present she wanted (at the 11th hour) or a quiet Christmas day on the beach. But we were loving it.
Normally we wouldn't hang in the tourist towns on peak but we are waiting to get our radiator done after boxing day so just going with the flow.
It is sad to be leaving behind the people of Redgum. But necessary. We have very itchy feet to be back on the road, but most importantly, Redgum life was not great for Lola. Far too isolating and lonely for her, so off we trot, back down the Stuart Highway, again.
Having not driven the bus for a while, very high NT temperatures and suspicion of the need for a new radiator, our plan was to get down the highway as quickly as possible, without blowing up the motor in the bus. We stopped in Alice a for a week or so, splurging on dining out. Being out in the desert bush, working long hours every day, the one thing we wanted most was to go out to a nice dinner, or order in a Saturday night take away. So we went a little crazy, out for breakfast lunch and dinner in Alice. Spent a fortune, time to to leave.
Leading up to Christmas and no hope of a bus radiator in Alice, we have sourced a fella in Adelaide who will replace our radiator of the Christmas/New Year period - awesome.
With the temp guage far too close to 100 for most of the way, we nursed it along. Stopped to help some locals broken down on the side of the road all night wanting to get to Coober Pedy for Christmas celebration purposes. We stopped for the afternoon until it cooled down then kept on travelling in the cool(er) of the evening.
MARCH TO DECEMBER 2016 I have dedicated a whole page to our Redgum experience. Not only was it a major part of Year 3 on the road, but a bus life experience we will never ever forget. Sharing a taste of culture and daily life from these vibrant, colourful people is a heartfelt, humbling, life changing experience. Thank you people of Utopia, you have been an inspiration to us all.